The Costs of Cotton

The fashion industry is a multi-billion dollar business and cotton represents almost half the fibre used in clothing and other textiles worldwide.

But what do people know, or even care, about how cotton is produced?  Most of us care a lot about the cut and colour of our jeans, and what’s on the label; but how many people actually stop to think about the environmental costs of what they’re wearing?  Not many.  Research from the UK suggests that the environmental impact of a garment is one of the least important considerations for most people when buying clothes.

The facts of global cotton production are frightening.  Most of the world’s crop comes at a huge cost to the environment, mainly because of unsustainable use of water and harmful pesticides.  According to the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF), the situation is so serious that:  “A tremendous amount of work will be required to bring cotton production into line with even minimally acceptable environmental standards.”

Cotton is one of the ‘thirstiest’ of all crops and uses a phenomenal amount of water to produce and process.  The Water Footprint Network estimates that, on average, over 10,000 litres is required to produce 1 kg of cotton fabric – enough for one pair of jeans.  Put another way, the fabric used to make a pair of jeans and T-shirt uses about the same amount of water as the average person needs to drink for 10 years(!)  Add to that the water used to wash the finished products and you have a colossal water footprint.

To make matters worse, cotton is often grown in areas of the World where there’s not enough rainfall to produce the crops needed to feed the local population. This means that the water has to be transported to the cotton fields from rivers, dams and non-renewable underground lakes.  In many cases, leaky pipes and inefficient irrigation practices mean that only about 30% of the water taken actually reaches the plants.


Cotton farming is responsible for over half of all pesticides used in some developing countries and, of the 46 main compounds used on cotton, 5 are classified as extremely hazardous, 8 as highly hazardous, and 20 as moderately hazardous.[i] Exposure to pesticides has severe detrimental health impacts on farm workers.
The World Health Organisation estimates that 20,000 to 40,000 people die and millions more have health problems as a direct result of accidental pesticide poisoning each year.  Pesticides are also a leading cause of suicide amongst farmers worldwide.  Most cases of intentional self-poisoning appear to be impulsive acts undertaken during stressful events, such as crop failures.

Pesticides also cause harm to all the animals in the ecosystem, from organisms in the soil, to insects, birds, mammals and downstream freshwater fish.  In some of the world’s largest rivers, fish stocks have decreased by more than 90% and many species have become extinct.  The problem is particularly acute in poorer regions, where the local people depend on fish for protein and calcium.

The environmental costs of cotton are well recognised and documented, so what’s the clothing industry doing to tackle the problem? Over the past few years, some of the world’s biggest retailers have been working behind the scenes to make cotton production more sustainable. H&M, Adidas, IKEA, Levi’s and Marks & Spencer have joined forces with other stakeholders to form The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), which aims to reduce the amount of water and chemicals used to grow cotton, conserve natural habitats and improve social and economic benefits for farmers.

In Pakistan, for example, BCI has established Farmer Field Schools to promote more sustainable growing methods.  The first Better Cotton crops were harvested in 2010 and initial results have shown that by using these practices, farmers can increase their output, keep pests under control and significantly reduce their water use.  “After one year we had water usage down by 38 per cent, pesticides down by 47 per cent, synthetic fertiliser usage down by 39 per cent, and farmers were earning more money.” says Guido Verijke, Director of IKEA’s Better Cotton Project.

Since then, confidence in the project has grown and BCI members have set ambitious targets to source sustainable cotton across their product ranges:

• H&M is the second largest global clothing retailer and is considered by many to be synonymous with disposable attitudes towards fashion.  In recent years, however, the company appears to be showing a genuine commitment to environmental and social responsibility.   H&M is now the world’s biggest user of organic cotton[ii] and has made commitments to source all of the cotton in its collections from sustainable sources by 2020.

• Adidas has made commitments to use only sustainable cotton in all of its brands by 2018.  Last year, the company achieved its target of 5% and is confident that it can increase this to 40% by 2015 and 100% by 2018.  The company is also working with other leading brands and investors to help sustainable cotton production go mainstream.

• IKEA uses cotton in many of its products, from sofas to curtains, bath towels and bedding. Today, 69% of the cotton used by the company is produced using sustainable farming practices and IKEA is confident of increasing this to 100% by 2015.

• More than 95 per cent of Levi’s products are made with cotton.  In 2011, the company produced 2 million pairs of jeans made out of Better Cotton.  Other initiatives include incorporating plastic waste into its Waste<Less denim and reducing the amount of water used in the manufacturing process of its Water<Less jeans.

Sports retailer Puma and over 20 other companies in the clothing sector have shown their support for sustainable and ethically produced cotton by backing the Aid by Trade Foundation’s Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) project. This has a similar ethos to BCI and works to improve the conditions of life for 270,000 smallholder cotton farmers in Africa.

These pioneer projects are leading the way towards a better and more sustainable future for cotton… but there’s still a very long way to go.  Today, only about 2% of global cotton is produced using sustainable farming methods.

So what can we do to help? We need to show that we care about the health of the environment and of the people who work hard to produce what we wear.  The sad fact is that until we do, nothing will change.  Here are some of the ways that you can make a difference:

1. Support designers and retailers who value sustainability – how we dress has become a way of expressing who we are and what we stand for.  Show that you stand for the environment by choosing clothes that have been designed and made sustainably. Be prepared to pay more for items that are well made and will survive at least 30 washes.
2. Extend the life of your clothes – one of the most effective ways to reduce your clothing footprint is to wear what’s already in your wardrobe for longer. This means looking after your clothes, washing them less frequently, patching your jeans and darning the holes in your T-shirts (if you don’t know how, ask a granny);
3. Choose second hand over new – trawl for treasures at vintage and retro markets, second-hand clothing stores and charity shops;
4. Upcycle, downcycle, recycle – at the end of its life, don’t throw your clothing away. Cotton can be upcycled to make any number of accessories, including jewellery, patches and bags.  Donate unwanted clothes to charity shops, whatever state they’re in; even if they can’t be worn again, they’ll be sold for downcycling into cleaning rags and other non-clothing uses.
5. Become active – write to the CEO of your favourite retailer to let them know that you care about how their clothes are produced and ask what they’re doing to ensure that the cotton they source is sustainable.

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[i] Pesticide Action Network UK: The Deadly Chemicals in Cotton

[ii] Organic cotton is produced using ecologically sound growing methods, which care for the health of the soil and the ecosystem.  The use of synthetic fertilisers and pesticides is not permitted, therefore many of the environmental problems associated with cotton production are avoided. However, organic standards don’t set limits on the water that can be used to grow the crop, so organic cotton isn’t necessarily sustainable.

Eat Local Feed Global

Oxfam has launched a new campaign inviting people to be part of a global movement that’s changing the way the world grows, stores, transports, sells and consumes food. Why? Because at the moment 1 in 8 people still go hungry every day. 

How do I Eat Local Feed Global? You can host a dinner party, share lunch, or simply get together for morning tea with friends, family or work mates. The idea is to raise community awareness on the scale of global hunger, and as a bonus collect donations to assist Oxfam’s work supporting support small-scale farmers in developing countries.

Register now to Eat Local Feed Global and you’ll join thousands of people around the world who are taking action between 12-20 October to reduce global hunger. 

Rainsticks

A 'rainstick' is a long, hollow percussion instrument that can be used to make a variety of sounds, from a gentle rain shower to a thunderstorm. They were originally used by the Aztec people of Central America - and possibly other Indigenous groups around the world - as part of ceremonies to bring about changes in the weather. They're now popularly used in all kinds of music, from rock to classical orchestra.

Rainsticks were traditionally made out of cactus, which is naturally hollow.  Once the plant had been dried in the sun, the spines were removed and nailed back inside in a spiral pattern.  The hollow was then filled with small stones or dried beans and sealed at both ends.

I've always loved the sound of rainsticks, so we decided to design and make our own instrument out of discarded materials.  The first stop was the Reverse Garbage warehouse in Woolloongabba, Brisbane, to find the materials we needed.  This place is an absolute treasure trove, packed with interesting and useful things, including fabrics and textiles, glass and ceramics, paper and card, plastics,  timber, rubber and foam. The people who work there are always happy to show you around and offer advice on how to overcome the difficulties of your particular project.

We made our rainstick using a cardboard Postpak mailing tube, with caps at both ends.  This was filled with small, hard objects - a combination of rice and small rubber discs made the best sound.  To slow down the flow of objects inside the tube, we inserted a bendable plastic strip with holes punched through (available from Reverse Garbage as 'black holey strips'). We decorated our rainstick with fabric, vinyl, feathers and wool but it could just as easily have been painted or covered with collage paper.

The rainstick can be played in different ways to make a variety of wonderful sounds.  When it's held vertically and flipped over, it makes the sound of falling water, as the objects inside gradually make their way to the bottom.  If held horizontally and tilted from side to side, it makes a gentle whooshing sound, like the rolling of the ocean.  A harsher, more urgent sound, can be made when the instrument is shaken. It can also be tapped with a stick to make a satisfying 'thwock' or a more gentle 'pitter patter'.  The rainstick can be played by anyone and makes a fantastic accompaniment to the guitar.

James Taylor's song 'Fire and Rain', we made a couple of last minute embellishments to our rainstick and included sandpaper and baking paper to mimic the roaring and crackling sounds of fire;  so it's a 'fire and rainstick' really...

Short Walks in the Rainforest with Kids

Brisbane must be one of the few cities in the world where you can take a day trip to the rainforest... and it's one of the reasons we feel so privileged to live in this region.  There's a striking diversity of environments literally on our doorstep, from the remnants of coastal rainforest at Burleigh Heads and Noosa to the stunning World Heritage listed Springbrook and Lamington National Parks.

Walking amongst the trees, listening to the sounds of the birds, and perhaps spotting a pademelon in the understorey, is a wonderful way to spend family time together.  It introduces children to our most important and fragile natural environment... and gives us the perfect opportunity to teach them how to respect and take care of it for the next generation.

Research shows that contact with nature and time spent playing in natural environments has many benefits for children, including:

• improving flexibility, balance and co-ordination;
• reducing stress levels;
• developing self-esteem and resilience; and 
• enhancing creativity and imagination.

Perhaps most importantly, it has been found that children who participate in 'wild nature activities', such as bushwalking and camping, are more likely to develop responsible attitudes and behaviours towards the environment:

'Time spent in natural environments encourages children to recognise themselves as part of nature and to develop a sense of ecological self.  The stronger this self-perception as being part of nature, the more likely a child is to protect it." (Source:  Planet Ark's 2013 report: Missing Trees: The Inside Story of an Outdoor Nation)

Before setting out on a rainforest walk, remember:

Kids love an adventure - so involve them in the preparations by asking them to plan an 'outdoor survival kit' with all the things they may need.  This could include a map, compass, camera, binoculars, small plastic jar and magnifying glass for examining interesting finds, notebook, pencil, small first aid kit (with salt, for removing leeches) and anything else they think might be useful.

Think about activities for the trail - that are fun and appropriate to the ages and interests of the children.  Our younger son never tires of pretending that he can see mythical creatures in the trees and rocks:  "I love imagining that the trees are dragons and that we have to tiptoe quietly past them so we don't wake them up!"  Sam (age 6).  Another of his favourite activities is finding a stick and using it to 'fish' for leaves in the creeks and rock pools along the way.

Older children might enjoy keeping a nature journal of their visits to the rainforest.  This could include stories, poems, riddles, photos or sketches of birds, bugs, leaves and any number of other treasures.

Be prepared - dress appropriately for the terrain and weather conditions, with boots or trainers, long pants and a hat.  Take along warm, waterproof jackets if there's any chance of a weather change.  Make sure the children eat before you leave and pack enough water and snacks for the trip... and a plastic bag to take home any rubbish.

These are some of our family's favourite places within a two hour drive from Brisbane, all with short walking trails suitable for young children:

1. Springbrook National Park - spectacular waterfalls, ancient trees, impressive views, exceptional biodiversity and outstanding natural beauty make this Gondwana Rainforests of Australia World Heritage Area a brilliant place to visit.  There are four sections to the park and several walking tracks, which vary from easy to strenuous. We particularly recommend:
   
   
   
   
   
   Best of All Lookout Track - which takes visitors on a 300m trail through the cloud forest, past some of the world's last remaining ancient Antarctic Beech trees, to a viewing platform at the edge of the Springbrook plateau.  On clear days, you can see how the whole area was once part of a massive shield volcano, over 100km in diameter and almost twice the height of Mount Warning today.
   
   
   If you're looking for a longer walk, take the 4km Twin Falls Circuit from Tallabana Picnic Area or Canyon Lookout.  This track takes you along a ridge (with fantastic views of the Gold Coast and hinterland), through different types of forest and behind two waterfalls.  Some parts of the track are adjacent to steep cliff edges, so children must be closely supervised. 
   
   
   Before leaving Springbrook National Park, don't forget to stop off at Purlingbrook Falls Lookout, just 100m from Gwongorella Picnic Area.  The waterfall is particularly impressive after periods of heavy rain.
   
   
2. D'Aguilar National Park - the southern section was formerly known as Brisbane Forest Park and is the closest and most accessible area of rainforest to the city centre.  An essential first stop for children is Walk-About Creek Wildlife Centre, located in the QPWS Visitor Centre on Mt Nebo Road at The Gap.  This provides a great opportunity to learn about native animals, including the elusive platypus, wombat, wallabies, snakes, nocturnal wildlife in a night-house and many types of birds in a walk-through aviary. The centre is open from 9am to 4.15pm every day and has an excellent program of ranger led events for children at weekends and during school holidays.
   
   
   
   
   
   Our favourite walking tracks include the short  Maiala Rainforest Circuit and the 1.1km Pitta Circuit at Boombana, which takes you through open eucalypt forest and then into subtropical rainforest, where you can walk around a huge strangler fig.  There are information boards along the way, explaining how rainforests are formed, the plants and animals that live there and the importance of rainforests for the health of our environment.
   
   
3. Mary Cairncross Scenic Reserve - this remnant of pristine subtropical rainforest near Maleny in the Sunshine Coast Hinterland is an outstanding place to visit with children.  It's always cool and provides a welcome place of retreat on the hottest summer days.  There's lots of birdlife here and, even if you don't manage to spot them in the dense vegetation, you can often hear the distinctive calls of the Whipbird (similar to the cracking of a whip) and the Green Catbird (a wailing sound, almost like a baby's cry).  There's also a thriving population of pademelons, which the children are always delighted to spot.
   
   
   

   
   

   
   

   
   
   
   

   
   

   
   

   The reserve has a small education centre with rainforest and animal displays, 2km of wheelchair accessible walking tracks, a grassy area for picnics and ball games, small playground and a cafe with stunning views of the Glasshouse Mountains.

   
   

   
   
4. Tamborine National Park - the Witches Falls section was the first place in Queensland to be declared a national park.  It includes areas of subtropical rainforest with piccabeen palm groves, wet eucalypt forest, open forest and woodland.  The park is home to 85% of all animal species found on the Gold Coast, including the rare Albert's Lyrebird, one of which we saw on the 3km Witches Falls Circuit during our last visit.
   
   
   
   
   
   There are several other short walking trails suitable for young children, including Macdonald Rainforest Circuit and Palm Grove Rainforest Circuit.
   
   
5. Noosa Heads National Park - is one of the few places where, if you look hard enough, you're almost guaranteed to spot a koala.  They can usually be seen dozing high in the trees alongside the walking track along the shoreline.  There are several lovely walks to choose from, including the 1km Palm Grove Circuit, through rainforest with hoop pines and piccabeen palms.  The Coastal Track provides access to some delightful secluded beaches, which are great for picnics and exploring the rockpools.

We hope this has inspired you to take a day trip to the rainforest soon!  And if you have any favourite wild places, we'd love to hear about them.

The Memory Stick

What's the fascination of sticks? I think it has something to do with their infinite potential.  A simple piece of wood lying on the ground can be a sword, magic wand, musical instrument or even a place to hold precious memories.  

Early childhood is such an exciting stage of development and our experiences during the first few years are the foundation of life's journey.   It's disappointing that so many expensive toys, computer games and TV shows allow little or no room for creativity or personal growth... compared to a stick, which costs nothing but can be painted, decorated, whittled, smoothed or just left in its natural state to be anything a child wants it to be.

Parents are understandably reluctant to let their children play with sharp objects out of fear that they will hurt themselves or another child. Although it's right to supervise very young children, allowing them to play with sticks teaches valuable lessons about showing respect for other people and walking away from situations where they don't feel safe.

This weekend, our children worked together to create a 'memory stick' of our recent visit to family and friends in England.  The idea was borrowed from the journey sticks made by indigenous people around the world when they travelled.  Starting at one end and working along it during the journey, they would tie special objects to the stick to help them remember events and experiences and to tell stories about their adventures.

Describing the experience, Noah (age 9) said, "Making the memory stick was so fun. When it was finished, we danced around and performed a special ceremony to celebrate our time in England."